‘Every Cook Must Learn Here’: Unassuming Turkish Eatery Secures Fourth on Ranking of London’s Leading Restaurants.

When compiling a ranking of London’s top eateries, one might expect renowned award-winning names. Yet, situated prominently among these culinary heavyweights is a modest salonu situated in a outlying corner of north London.

An Unexpected Recognition

This small Turkish spot, focusing in the street food of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been named the fourth top restaurant in the city by a prominent culinary publication. This accolade has left the proprietors utterly astonished.

“I’m totally surprised,” says a owner’s son, alluding to his family’s dedication that resulted in their small place earning such a prominent ranking on a respected 99-strong list.

A Charm of Simplicity

The small shop, which was a simple cafe before its transformation into a buzzing spot, has retained much of its former charm. It fits just over 20 people and, aside from the impressive live cooking performance, the setup remains largely unchanged. “It is a tiny and intimate spot,” notes the owner.

The Namesake Dish: Tantuni

In the end, it’s focused on the food, and this restaurant more than excels. The eatery’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated joy. Choice of meat—either lamb or chicken—is steamed to preserve a tender texture.

It is then thrown into a massive pan with spices and oil, which are added in slowly. When the savoury mixture heats through, handmade lavaş—a pliable bread—is slapped on top to absorb all the flavours. Finely sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley are placed before the savoury meat is folded securely inside.

It is usually eaten with a squeeze of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The final product is a mighty punch of flavour, with gentle hints of sumac, sharp onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil tying it all together.

Beyond the Classic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is sliced and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. The respected food critic described this dish “a part of London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

When it comes to sweets, the restaurant’s künefe goes down a treat. It is coated in a more modest amount of syrup than is typical, giving it a more intense, toastier and more balanced flavour.

Surpassing the Titans

Interestingly, this unassuming spot has been placed higher than several celebrated three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself just behind the top of the list, following other esteemed dining destinations.

Whereas two people could readily leave the restaurant stuffed for less than £25, similar meals at top-tier establishments can run into significantly more than that figure.

The Philosophy of Warmth

The restaurant is also one of several Turkish restaurants included and is located well beyond the city’s prime zones. “It is not concerning luxury. London is an pricey city. There is an belief that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the finest service and top food but I don’t agree with that,” says the owner.

“In my view what is paramount is hospitality, friendliness and a place you can be yourself and be calm.”

This view is echoed by the list’s curator, who remarked that if he was in a role of authority, he would “insist to have every chef in London come to this restaurant as a finishing school, to teach them the traps of excess, and to show what is possible if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their absolute best”.

A Story of Dedication

Unlike most chefs managing kitchens in the list’s top ten, the head chef behind the food did not work at elite establishments. “I am very happy of our restaurant and our mum,” adds her son.

Many restaurants require years to become successful, but this one first launched seven years ago. Its acclaim is owing to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of effort.

“My mum was very tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. Each item is handmade; she would handle all of this. She is a single mother and she had a life outside work but her friends would come here to help her. She had children and a house to manage as well. Each of these roles made her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he reflects.

An Accomplishment for the Community

This restaurant’s success is likely to resonate outside its own doors. “I think numerous people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” concludes the owner, highlighting the greater importance of this gastronomic achievement.